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How can I wire a Raspberry Pi to an 8-relay board in a tidy professional manner?
How to add isolation between raspberry pi and relay board?Power on 5V GPIO power pin at bootCan I wire a relay AND a breadboard?Motion Sensor Doesn't Work using Pins #2 and #3?Issues with Sunfounder relay boardWiring and soldering a prototype board for a Pi ZeroPowering a raspberry pi from another raspberry pi through gpio over a relatively long distanceGPIO relay signal cross turns to all relays staying on after Darlington addedOpen/Close Sliding Gate Using Raspberry Pi and Python4 relay board weird behavior
I want to connect a Raspberry Pi to an 8-relay board, such as this one.
Together with ground and power this amounts to ten wires. One option to connect the two is by using female to female jumper cables, such as these.
However, this will result in a messy and delicate connection. For example, if one of the wires is accidentally pulled, there's the risk of reinserting it to a wrong pin. What's the professional way to connect the two boards with a cable?
gpio relay wiring
add a comment |
I want to connect a Raspberry Pi to an 8-relay board, such as this one.
Together with ground and power this amounts to ten wires. One option to connect the two is by using female to female jumper cables, such as these.
However, this will result in a messy and delicate connection. For example, if one of the wires is accidentally pulled, there's the risk of reinserting it to a wrong pin. What's the professional way to connect the two boards with a cable?
gpio relay wiring
What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer
– crasic
21 hours ago
add a comment |
I want to connect a Raspberry Pi to an 8-relay board, such as this one.
Together with ground and power this amounts to ten wires. One option to connect the two is by using female to female jumper cables, such as these.
However, this will result in a messy and delicate connection. For example, if one of the wires is accidentally pulled, there's the risk of reinserting it to a wrong pin. What's the professional way to connect the two boards with a cable?
gpio relay wiring
I want to connect a Raspberry Pi to an 8-relay board, such as this one.
Together with ground and power this amounts to ten wires. One option to connect the two is by using female to female jumper cables, such as these.
However, this will result in a messy and delicate connection. For example, if one of the wires is accidentally pulled, there's the risk of reinserting it to a wrong pin. What's the professional way to connect the two boards with a cable?
gpio relay wiring
gpio relay wiring
asked 2 days ago
Diomidis SpinellisDiomidis Spinellis
1385
1385
What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer
– crasic
21 hours ago
add a comment |
What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer
– crasic
21 hours ago
What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer
– crasic
21 hours ago
What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer
– crasic
21 hours ago
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
The black housings are available for more than just one contact, as one row or two row version. The contacts are crimped to the wires , which means you either have a crimp tool or somehow solder it. Ideally, you can use your cable, remove contacts from the housing, and just push them into the bigger housing.
Edit (by Milliways) To add to the answer I have a selection of housings I purchased on eBay. I use these with a crimping tool (their original purpose) or on existing jumper cables.
Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.
– Roger Jones
2 days ago
This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?
– Diomidis Spinellis
yesterday
1
@DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.
– Roger Jones
yesterday
add a comment |
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1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
The black housings are available for more than just one contact, as one row or two row version. The contacts are crimped to the wires , which means you either have a crimp tool or somehow solder it. Ideally, you can use your cable, remove contacts from the housing, and just push them into the bigger housing.
Edit (by Milliways) To add to the answer I have a selection of housings I purchased on eBay. I use these with a crimping tool (their original purpose) or on existing jumper cables.
Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.
– Roger Jones
2 days ago
This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?
– Diomidis Spinellis
yesterday
1
@DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.
– Roger Jones
yesterday
add a comment |
The black housings are available for more than just one contact, as one row or two row version. The contacts are crimped to the wires , which means you either have a crimp tool or somehow solder it. Ideally, you can use your cable, remove contacts from the housing, and just push them into the bigger housing.
Edit (by Milliways) To add to the answer I have a selection of housings I purchased on eBay. I use these with a crimping tool (their original purpose) or on existing jumper cables.
Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.
– Roger Jones
2 days ago
This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?
– Diomidis Spinellis
yesterday
1
@DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.
– Roger Jones
yesterday
add a comment |
The black housings are available for more than just one contact, as one row or two row version. The contacts are crimped to the wires , which means you either have a crimp tool or somehow solder it. Ideally, you can use your cable, remove contacts from the housing, and just push them into the bigger housing.
Edit (by Milliways) To add to the answer I have a selection of housings I purchased on eBay. I use these with a crimping tool (their original purpose) or on existing jumper cables.
The black housings are available for more than just one contact, as one row or two row version. The contacts are crimped to the wires , which means you either have a crimp tool or somehow solder it. Ideally, you can use your cable, remove contacts from the housing, and just push them into the bigger housing.
Edit (by Milliways) To add to the answer I have a selection of housings I purchased on eBay. I use these with a crimping tool (their original purpose) or on existing jumper cables.
edited yesterday
Milliways
29.8k1355116
29.8k1355116
answered 2 days ago
swebersweber
2763
2763
Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.
– Roger Jones
2 days ago
This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?
– Diomidis Spinellis
yesterday
1
@DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.
– Roger Jones
yesterday
add a comment |
Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.
– Roger Jones
2 days ago
This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?
– Diomidis Spinellis
yesterday
1
@DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.
– Roger Jones
yesterday
Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.
– Roger Jones
2 days ago
Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.
– Roger Jones
2 days ago
This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?
– Diomidis Spinellis
yesterday
This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?
– Diomidis Spinellis
yesterday
1
1
@DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.
– Roger Jones
yesterday
@DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.
– Roger Jones
yesterday
add a comment |
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What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer
– crasic
21 hours ago