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How can I wire a Raspberry Pi to an 8-relay board in a tidy professional manner?


How to add isolation between raspberry pi and relay board?Power on 5V GPIO power pin at bootCan I wire a relay AND a breadboard?Motion Sensor Doesn't Work using Pins #2 and #3?Issues with Sunfounder relay boardWiring and soldering a prototype board for a Pi ZeroPowering a raspberry pi from another raspberry pi through gpio over a relatively long distanceGPIO relay signal cross turns to all relays staying on after Darlington addedOpen/Close Sliding Gate Using Raspberry Pi and Python4 relay board weird behavior













4















I want to connect a Raspberry Pi to an 8-relay board, such as this one.
enter image description here



Together with ground and power this amounts to ten wires. One option to connect the two is by using female to female jumper cables, such as these.



enter image description here



However, this will result in a messy and delicate connection. For example, if one of the wires is accidentally pulled, there's the risk of reinserting it to a wrong pin. What's the professional way to connect the two boards with a cable?










share|improve this question






















  • What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer

    – crasic
    21 hours ago
















4















I want to connect a Raspberry Pi to an 8-relay board, such as this one.
enter image description here



Together with ground and power this amounts to ten wires. One option to connect the two is by using female to female jumper cables, such as these.



enter image description here



However, this will result in a messy and delicate connection. For example, if one of the wires is accidentally pulled, there's the risk of reinserting it to a wrong pin. What's the professional way to connect the two boards with a cable?










share|improve this question






















  • What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer

    – crasic
    21 hours ago














4












4








4


2






I want to connect a Raspberry Pi to an 8-relay board, such as this one.
enter image description here



Together with ground and power this amounts to ten wires. One option to connect the two is by using female to female jumper cables, such as these.



enter image description here



However, this will result in a messy and delicate connection. For example, if one of the wires is accidentally pulled, there's the risk of reinserting it to a wrong pin. What's the professional way to connect the two boards with a cable?










share|improve this question














I want to connect a Raspberry Pi to an 8-relay board, such as this one.
enter image description here



Together with ground and power this amounts to ten wires. One option to connect the two is by using female to female jumper cables, such as these.



enter image description here



However, this will result in a messy and delicate connection. For example, if one of the wires is accidentally pulled, there's the risk of reinserting it to a wrong pin. What's the professional way to connect the two boards with a cable?







gpio relay wiring






share|improve this question













share|improve this question











share|improve this question




share|improve this question










asked 2 days ago









Diomidis SpinellisDiomidis Spinellis

1385




1385












  • What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer

    – crasic
    21 hours ago


















  • What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer

    – crasic
    21 hours ago

















What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer

– crasic
21 hours ago






What distances? Small enclosure or control cabinet? For control cabinets I prefer screw terminals or ideally ferule terminal blocks for small enclosures properly terminated cables are good as per accepted answer

– crasic
21 hours ago











1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes


















6














The black housings are available for more than just one contact, as one row or two row version. The contacts are crimped to the wires , which means you either have a crimp tool or somehow solder it. Ideally, you can use your cable, remove contacts from the housing, and just push them into the bigger housing.



enter image description here



Edit (by Milliways) To add to the answer I have a selection of housings I purchased on eBay. I use these with a crimping tool (their original purpose) or on existing jumper cables.
enter image description here






share|improve this answer

























  • Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.

    – Roger Jones
    2 days ago











  • This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?

    – Diomidis Spinellis
    yesterday






  • 1





    @DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.

    – Roger Jones
    yesterday










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1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes








1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









6














The black housings are available for more than just one contact, as one row or two row version. The contacts are crimped to the wires , which means you either have a crimp tool or somehow solder it. Ideally, you can use your cable, remove contacts from the housing, and just push them into the bigger housing.



enter image description here



Edit (by Milliways) To add to the answer I have a selection of housings I purchased on eBay. I use these with a crimping tool (their original purpose) or on existing jumper cables.
enter image description here






share|improve this answer

























  • Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.

    – Roger Jones
    2 days ago











  • This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?

    – Diomidis Spinellis
    yesterday






  • 1





    @DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.

    – Roger Jones
    yesterday















6














The black housings are available for more than just one contact, as one row or two row version. The contacts are crimped to the wires , which means you either have a crimp tool or somehow solder it. Ideally, you can use your cable, remove contacts from the housing, and just push them into the bigger housing.



enter image description here



Edit (by Milliways) To add to the answer I have a selection of housings I purchased on eBay. I use these with a crimping tool (their original purpose) or on existing jumper cables.
enter image description here






share|improve this answer

























  • Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.

    – Roger Jones
    2 days ago











  • This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?

    – Diomidis Spinellis
    yesterday






  • 1





    @DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.

    – Roger Jones
    yesterday













6












6








6







The black housings are available for more than just one contact, as one row or two row version. The contacts are crimped to the wires , which means you either have a crimp tool or somehow solder it. Ideally, you can use your cable, remove contacts from the housing, and just push them into the bigger housing.



enter image description here



Edit (by Milliways) To add to the answer I have a selection of housings I purchased on eBay. I use these with a crimping tool (their original purpose) or on existing jumper cables.
enter image description here






share|improve this answer















The black housings are available for more than just one contact, as one row or two row version. The contacts are crimped to the wires , which means you either have a crimp tool or somehow solder it. Ideally, you can use your cable, remove contacts from the housing, and just push them into the bigger housing.



enter image description here



Edit (by Milliways) To add to the answer I have a selection of housings I purchased on eBay. I use these with a crimping tool (their original purpose) or on existing jumper cables.
enter image description here







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited yesterday









Milliways

29.8k1355116




29.8k1355116










answered 2 days ago









swebersweber

2763




2763












  • Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.

    – Roger Jones
    2 days ago











  • This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?

    – Diomidis Spinellis
    yesterday






  • 1





    @DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.

    – Roger Jones
    yesterday

















  • Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.

    – Roger Jones
    2 days ago











  • This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?

    – Diomidis Spinellis
    yesterday






  • 1





    @DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.

    – Roger Jones
    yesterday
















Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.

– Roger Jones
2 days ago





Nice answer, might I add that you can also re-arrange the pin orders on one side to suit or omit unnecessary lines. Also heatshrink tubing is great for keeping loose bundles neat and adding a little strain relief.

– Roger Jones
2 days ago













This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?

– Diomidis Spinellis
yesterday





This looks like a perfect solution, thanks! @RogerJones heatshrink tubing is another nice touch. Would you apply it end-to-end, near each connectors, or somehow else?

– Diomidis Spinellis
yesterday




1




1





@DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.

– Roger Jones
yesterday





@DiomidisSpinellis depends on the length and how often the loom is going to be moved. For short runs, say < 10cm, I'd shrink the whole lot. For longer runs I'd shrink the connectors plusabout 2cm of cable on each end and then have short bits of heatshink every 5cm or so along the length. If the "bundle" hasn't been split up into individual strands then you'd not need so much along the length.

– Roger Jones
yesterday

















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